The Wonderful West

Day 13 - 15 Leisurely drive to the World Heritage listed Shark Bay, home of the world famous Monkey Mia, where approx 600 dolphins live and play in the bay, and morning and afternoon some come into the beach for feeding, much to the amusement and enjoyment of young and old alike. Amazed at the number of international visitors at the camp, more then 50%, who came specifically because of Monkey Mia’s international reputation.

Wide open plains of the Pilbura

Day 15 – 17 How Purring Pussy responds to gentle stroking across vast plains of the Pilbura Region, heart throbbing rhythmically at 3,000rpm, loping effortlessly along at 180kph, the klms just gobbled up underneath on the way to Broome. Compare though in proper speed, 112mph is slower than average time of Stirling Moss’s Jaguar in the 1950’s Mille Miglia – progress?

A great boon though has been the fitting of Kevlar brake pads, stopping power unheard of, down long winding passes, pure confidence with absolutely no brake fade, in a few trial panic stops from 240kph it was like having two sets of brakes – utter safety and security!

Day 18 – 21 Spent exploring Broome, the wonderful clear turquoise waters of Roebuck Bay and golden white sands of Cable Beach, from the Japanese area where the early pearl divers made their sacrifices and incredible pearl discoveries, to the unusual style of Colonial/Asian architecture, remnants of an exotic past are everywhere. Also worked on Purring Pussy replacing water pump and A/C compressor, flown up overnight from Perth. The original A/C compressor, the size of a small motorbike engine, restricted access to engine components, but with a new universal model that is half the size and weight, and more efficient, resulting in opening up the top of the engine with no more restrictions.

Day 21 - 22 Leaving Broome and the coast behind, travelled inland now to Fitzroy Crossing, spending the night at Falls Creek, where in all directions stretches a harsh and uncompromising country. In 1885 the first payable gold in WA was discovered at Old Halls Creek, and by the end of the year, 2000 miners were living in makeshift sheds and calico tents together with 20 pubs, 8 brothels and 2 churches. From here, in the early 1900’s, long and dangerous cattle drives down the celebrated Canning Stock Route began, lasting until 1958.

On to Kununurra and the mighty Ord River scheme. Amazing that in the past we could build such projects as the Snowy Mountains Scheme and the Ord River Dam and irrigation project, but today we lack the vision for these character and country building schemes. When 92% of the Ord River dam’s water flows to the ocean unused, why don’t the politicians have the foresight and guts to undertake another “Snowy” project and turn the Ord inland, utilising this wasted water to irrigate vast inland areas?

Spent the night at a lovely spot, Timber Creek, on the banks of the Victoria River, where not even the locals walk, infested with 4 – 5 m crocodiles, making an easy meal out of an arm, leg or complete body, they’re not fussy. That doesn’t stop them from enjoying their rewarding and popular pastime, fishing, with Barramundi being the favourite catch from their boats.

Day 23 Up early this morning before sunrise to start a small plane flight over the vast grazing properties of Kerry Packer, Janet Holmes A’ Court and others, the best cattle grazing in Australia they say, imagine a property 85,000 acres, 35,000 head of cattle and only six station hands. At mustering time they just park the big road train transports (trucks with three large trailers) at strategic points around the property, bring in the helicopters and drive the cattle short distances to load, then transport them up to Darwin for loading onto the ships. A far cry from yesteryear when jackaroos spent months on end, enduring unfathomable hardships, driving the cattle over the old stock routes.

The incredible Bungle Bungles

We then passed over the Bungle Bungles – magnificent – a multicoloured layered rock formation sitting proudly in the middle of the plains south of Kununurra, rugged, majestic, created from the erosion of surrounding countryside over the centuries by the effects of wind and rain. Over the Argyle Diamond Mine, largest in the world, home of Argyle pink diamonds. You can’t comprehend the size of trucks operating the open cut mine, each one carries the equivalent load of two 747 jumbo jets!

The Mighty Ord River Dam & Lake Argyle

Roadhouse accommodation -

basic but clean and comfortable

Then over the Ord River area and Lake Argyle, can you envisage 15 times the size of Sydney Harbour, what a volume and expanse of water, flowing over the dam wall, generating enormous amounts of electricity, then irrigating the cultivated areas harvesting crops of beautiful fruits where tropical agriculture excels and feeds Australia.

Back to Timber Creek flying over the Victoria River, and it soon becomes obvious what the locals are saying, lying along both banks of the river are hundreds of 4 – 5m crocodiles, lying idyllically in the sun, just waiting for that unsuspecting tourist.

After this five hour air excursion,

Ichi Mouse and Purring Pussy proceeded on to Darwin

Day 24 – 27 Arrival at Mirambeena Resort, home base for the start of the Jaguar XK 120 Commemorative Run, and who should be the first people to see but Ian and Eola Cummins, quite appropriate. What an inspiring sight to drive into the car park and see 48 Jaguars wall to wall –

XK 120’s, 140’s & 150’s, E-types and Mk 2’s.

While I had travelled alone up to now, my son Byron joined me for the Darwin to Alice Commemorative Run, another father and son adventure together. The days were spent meeting other Jaguar aficionados on the trip, sightseeing Darwin, sunset sailing on the harbour and generally enjoying the magnificent seafood, before receiving our instructions at the dinner on the last night.