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| Ancillaries |
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Headlights
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I have fitted the twin head lights with 90W / 130W quartz normal beams and 150W aircraft landing lights for high beam, bonnet louvres for heat removal (works great, on a recent 8,000 km trip through our interior in 440C, engine stayed cool all the time) and rear boot spoiler with integral stop light, all the better for other drivers behind to see us stopping. |
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Electrical Relays and Fuses
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Removed existing relays and fuses from different locations in engine bay, set up all together on bracket on inner guard, one each LH Headlight Low Beam, LH Headlight High Beam, RH Headlight Low Beam, RH Headlight High Beam, Air Horns, Left Side Electric Water Pump, Right Side Electric Water Pump, Electric Fan 01, Electric Fan 02, Wolf Engine Management, CDI Ignition Module, Accessories socket, + & - terminal posts, Wipers Slow Speed, Wipers Fast Speed, Engine Cool Down (Cycles electric pumps and fan after engine shutdown to prevent heat soak to heads till stabilised at 950C) |
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Installed 6mm wire from the battery terminal post on bulkhead to fuses block. From fuses ran a 2.5mm wire to input side of each relay, and 2.5mm wire from output to each electrical component. The normal Jaguar wiring for each component is then used to activate the relay, resulting in full current to each component without the line losses associated with the normal Jaguar wiring, and I believe a much neater arrangement of all relays/fuses located together. |
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Suspension
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The suspension has also been upgraded with 24mm stiffer front sway bar, addition of an 18mm rear sway bar, 25mm lower stiffer springs and adjustable Spax shock absorbers, 245 x 40 x 18 front and 285 x 35 x 18 rear TOYO PROXES T1-R on black mesh mags to really appreciate the increased horsepower and improved handling performance dramatically. |
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Cruise Control
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Have removed the vacuum cruise control system, and fitted an electronic one out of a GM Commodore. Much more efficient, has tap up and tap down, cancel and output for operating light, connected into the existing wiring. |
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Removed large windscreen wash bottle and fitted aftermarket rectangular one, fitted cruise control unit in corner space (removed another component from the engine valley), along with new stainless steel header and aluminium expansion tank, and a centrifugal oil filter. |
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Centrifugal Oil Filter
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My first training was as a Marine Engineer, spending some time on the Hong Kong, Taiwan, Philippines, New Guinea, Australia run - operating around the equator was very warm to say the least. With these conditions, the oil in the engines operated under extremes, and the way that the oil was filtered was by means of centrifugal oil filters. So - why not the same system for car engines.
I fitted a centrifugal oil filter from a Toyota Landcruiser, modifying the mounting plate to fit against the firewall, supply line takes a small amount from the main oil gallery, super cleaning it, then return line draining back thru a fitting welded into the side of the sump .
The centrifugal filter principal is to spin the oil in a high velocity mist, contaminants down to 2 microns are flung onto the outer wall of the drum, where they build up in a liquorice type substance, which is then cleaned off with a solvent. |
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Alternator
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Removal of the air pump and its piping, and blocking off the holes into the manifold, allowed relocation of the alternator higher on the side of the engine in place of the compressor tensioner pulley, which has reduced the number of belts from 4 to 2 equal sized (13A 900) belts on the main front pulley, tensioned opposite each other in a horizontal pane. This has opened up the space between the front of the engine and radiator, now can get in to do cleaning and maintenance work with ease. The 140amp alternator is driven by a small belt (11A 545) off the Air Conditioning compressor |
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Air Conditioning Compressor
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Removed the air conditioning compressor and replaced it with a universal type which is about 75% diameter of the old one and half the length, this uses less power to operate, and is more efficient. I mounted the compressor on the bottom right side of the engine. This opens up the top of the engine to allow more airflow through the centre valley, down the rear over the gearbox and also clear access to the spark plugs and wiring. |
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Mounting the compressor in this location shortens the suction line from the TX valve, to be re-run down the side of the inner guard, relocating the fuel cooler under the intake manifold clamped to the inner guard, then drop straight into the compressor from the fuel cooler. Discharge from the compressor is taken out to the front of the car. |
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Changed the original XJS condenser, which is of the inefficient serpentine type, to a 600 x 300 parallel flow highly efficient condenser located in front of the radiator. The bottom mounting lugs are taken from the old serpentine condenser and fitted to the bottom of the new condenser, and it then fits in exactly as the old condenser did, but operates with much more efficiency. |
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Power Steering
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The original power steering pump has been removed, and replaced with a smaller one from a VS Commodore, located on the lower right hand side of the engine, with piping running straight back into steering box without having to travel around the engine. |
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From the steering box to fluid cooler and a remote reservoir located in front of the radiator. The fluid cooler has been relocated from beside the left hand engine mount, to in the air stream under the front bumper bar. |
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Brakes
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Fitted cross drilled and slotted front brake rotors and have changed the rear rotors to ventilated, and fitted 3" pipe air scoops to deliver cooling air to callipers. Has certainly made a difference on the track. |
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Replaced flexible brake lines with stainless steel braided ones from Andrew at http://www.vicspiteri.com.au/ |
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Have changed the brake pads to Kevlar, found them to be extremely good on city and country driving, no fade and increased stopping. |
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Also changed the brake fluid reservoir from the standard Jaguar one, to one from a Hyundai Excel, sturdier construction, no leaking +9*at the hose connectors, and the fluid level warning is plastic, not cork as is Jaguar, so never fails. |
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XJS Bonnet Gas Struts
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Sick of having the hood slowly descend on you while trying to work on the engine, tired of knocking the skull on the hood when trying to check fan belts etc? This problem has come home to me again with recently helping some friends work on their XJS's. |
Bonnet opens much farther with longer struts, dotted line indicates normal bonnet opening |
